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Kit-Sr5.uk - Sheepskin Rug Urine Killer Kit

$177.95

Kit-Sr5.uk - Sheepskin Rug Urine Killer Kit

$177.95
Weight:
3.100 KGS
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Product Description

Leather Doctor® Kit-Sr5.uk, sheepskin urine killer kit is formulated to decontaminate urine problems from denaturing into dry rotting. Aged urine is detectable with its characteristic ammonic odor. The presence of ammonic odor may indicate the shifting of pH value up to 10. The suede side will most likely feel sticky or slimy with wet finger testing it. This stickiness is a sign of leather denaturing to dry rotting. Browning discoloration is the result of alkalinity from the fermenting urine. Blacken discoloration may indicate migrating tanning agents and white powdery residue the migrating fatliquor (fat and oil). Dried surface is clean and pH balanced with CleanUrine-1.5 > Acidifier-2.0 system to rectify the browning discoloration prior to KillUrine-2.1 treatment. At this stage, the skin should feel squeaky after returning to its chemistry integrity of pH 3 - 5. Stiff leather is relaxed and sticks together fiber separated by Hydrator-3.3. The penetrated stain removing process continues with hydrating prior to fat and oil replenishing with leather scented Fatliquor.LS-5.5. The above are done to both sides and leave for natural dry to satisfaction. Final cleaning to the wool side is done with CleanWool-5.5 follows with RinseWool-4.0. The final phase is done with Protector-S+ to impart a silky feel and diffuse a classic leather scent. Note that the mentioned products suffix numbers denotes its pH value in this holistic approach for hair-on-hide urine decontamination process. This kit comes with reduced weight option to save on shipping thus all the 250ml concentrate ratio spray bottles has to be cut (mix) and filled up with distilled water prior to use

Instruction:

A - Dry Soil Removing: SuedeBrush-2 > SuedeEraser-5 > Vacuuming system: A1 - Dry Soil removal is performed first to the suede side by SuedeEraser-5 then follows by vacuuming. A2 - The reverse wool side cleaning continues in similar sequence with HideBrush-5 or a slicker comb then follows by vacuuming.

B - Suede-side general Spot Cleaning & pH balancing Browning Discoloration: CleanUrine-1.5 > Acidifier-2.0 system: B1 - Start with the suede side by placing a thick terry cotton towel on the reverse wool side to absorb any flushing through. B2 - Apply CleanUrine-1.5 and brush with SuedeEraser-5 /HideBrush-4 at an angle gently (not to cut into the soft suede) to penetrate the stain and towel extract until towel shows clean. B3 - Apply Acidifier-2.0 and repeat as above until towel shows clean. Purpose of this process is to rectify the pH imbalance browning discoloration.

C - Wool-side general Spot Cleaning & pH balancing Browning Discoloration: CleanUrine-1.5 > Acidifier-2.0 system. C1 - Reverse to the wool-side facing up and place a new thick terry cotton towel beneath to absorb any flushing through. C2 - Apply CleanUrine-1.5, brush with SuedeEraser-5 / HairBrush-4 and towel extract until towel shows clean. C3 - Apply Acidifier-2.0 and repeat as above until towel shows clean. Purpose of this process is to rectify the pH imbalance browning discoloration.

D - Urine Neutralizing: KillUrine-2.1 system: Note-1: Strong odor will dissipate once the products is fully exhausted. Note-2: Ensure that moisture content is fully extracted from both sides, yet still moist prior to neutralizing it. Note-3: Handle with care when skin is stiff from drying. Note-4: Any rings on the suede side may be removed by Hydrator-3.3 using Towel-T5 ‘reverse-transfer’ technique during the suede-side rejuvenating process. D1 - Start by applying KillUrine-2.1 to the suede side saturating it, place a new dry terry cotton towel underneath before turning the wool side facing up. D2 - Apply KillUrine-2.1 again to the wool side, groom onto the lay side and let the product works through until it dries. D3 - Inspect for improve of ammoniac smell when dry to satisfaction; otherwise reapply for another round as above. D4 - Strong product odor will also dissipate once it is exhausted. Purpose of this process is to kill the active ammonia content from denaturing or causing dry rotting to the skin.

E - General Cleaning Suede Side: CleanSuede-3.8 > RinseSuede-3.0 system: E1 - CleanSuede-3.8 is applied and brushes at an angle with SuedeEraser-5 / HideBrush-4 and towel extract until towel shows clean. E2 - RinseSuede-3.0 is applied, brush and towel extract until towel shows clean. Purpose of this process is a general cleaning and pH balancing close to the pH neutral of the skin.

F - Suede-Side Rejuvenating: Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system: F1 - Rings if any is removed by saturating the spots beyond the rings with Hydrator-3.3 and Towel-5 is wet stretched over void of air space with a soft brush and let to natural dry, in this ‘reverse transfer’ technique. F2 - When crispy dry the towel is peel off. F3 - The entire surface is applied again with Hydrator-3.3 for an overall inspection for rings or oily patches, breaking any surface tension prior to Fatliquor-5.0 replenishing it. F4 - Fatliquor-5.0 is applied evenly for an even absorption up to the desired fat and oil content of 15% when dry, read with a leather moisture meter to ensure suppleness from cracking. F5 - When almost dry or about 25% combined moisture level it is roll-flex for increase suppleness to lay flat especially around the edges and cleaning on the wool side may commence. F6 - To improve flatness, ironing on a wool setting over a white printing paper helps removes unwanted wrinkles (ensure that fatliquor moisture content levels allows this process otherwise top it up and repeat).

G - General Cleaning Wool Side: CleanWool-5.5 > RinseWool-4.0 system: G1 - CleanWool-5.5 is applied and brush in the direction of the lay and towel extract until towel shows clean. G2 - RinseWool-4.0 is applied and brush again in the direction of the lay and towel extract until towel shows clean. G3 - The wool is let to dry naturally.

H - Non-Stick, Silky-Feel Conditioning: Protector-S/S+: H1 - Protector-S (scentless) or Protector-S+ (leather-scented) is spray and brush the wool in the direction of the lay and let to dry naturally. H2 - When dry, groom to bloom with HideBrush-5 or slicker comb and it is ready for use. 

Content and Individual Product Description:

Leather Doctor CleanUrine-1.5 in 250ml with a pH value of 1.5 is a water-based urine restorative cleaner with an extra protonating or pH balancing function to revert the leather from denaturing back to rawhide or dry rotting. However, displaced original fat and oil will need replenished for suppleness. The shifting of the amphoteric leather protein fibers to ionic negative (-ve) from the fermenting urine weakens the ionic attraction between the leather protein fibers with the other ionic negative (-ve) leather constituents like the tanning agents that results in tackiness, dyes that bleeds and fatliquor into stiffness that leads to cracks.A holistic system will require Acidifier-2.0 as rinse, Hydrator-3.3 for dispersing and wicking soiling particulates from within the leather structure to the surface by a reverse-transfer technique with Towel-5 and Eraser-4 for leather and nubuck; and Eraser-5 for Suede. Replenishing the original fat and oil with Fatliquor-5.0 rejuvenates its suppleness. Application: 1- Dry soil removal prior to application with appropriate Brush-1 for leather, Brush-2 for Nubuck and Brush-3 for Suede in combination with Eraser-4 for leather and nubuck; and Eraser-5 for Suede. 2- Spray CleanUrine-1.5 and agitate with appropriate brushes and towel extract until it shows clean. 3- Spray Acidifier-2.0 and agitate with appropriate brushes and towel extract until towel shows clean. 4- Proceed with Hydrator-3.3 to relax and separate the stick together fiber structure and dwelling it up to 72 hours helps to redistribute the surrounding leather constituents back to the exposed areas. Towel-5 is recommended to facilitates “reverse-transfer” of wick up soiling particulates through the towel to be peel when crispy dry. 5- Surface is erased accordingly with either Eraser-4 or Eraser-5 to removed wick up soiling particulates. 6- Stiff dry leather is again hydrated with Hydrator-3.3 prior to fatliquor replenishing. 7- Fatliquor-5.0 commences topping-up the difference to 14% - 16% (fat and oil) when dry. 8- Leather is ready for further refinishing as necessary.

Leather Doctor Acidifier-2.0 in 250ml is a water-based pH 2.0 leather acidifier rinse develop for controlling absorbent leather denaturing into dry rotting in conjunction with CleanUrine-1.5 in urine decontamination system. As a standalone, it is use for pH balancing alkaline overexposure that manifest as browning, marks, streaks, brightness and tackiness. Application: 1- Spray direct sufficiently and agitate with appropriate brushes. 2- Towel extract suspended soiling until it shows clean. 3- To dwell 10 to 30 minutes depending on exposure severity and let naturally dry to see result. 4- Wick-up soiling is removed by brushing or erasing accordingly.

Leather Doctor KillUrine-2.1 in 250ml is formulated for all leather types. This is a pH 2.1 aqueous leather urine stain neutralizer with a strong sour odor for neutralizing the ammonia and alkaline phosphorus salt found in urine from “reverse-tanning” the leather into dry rotting. Sour odor will dissipate when completely dry. Preparation Cleaning: 1- Dry soil removal - use leather Eraser-4 for smooth leathers and nubuck; suede Eraser-5 for suede. 2- Remove the surface soiling first - use CleanUrine-1.5 follows with Acidifier-2.0 with appropriate bush agitation and towel extraction. Application: 1- Spray and saturate KillUrine-2.1 sufficiently deeper than the urine stain with help of brush agitation. 2- Dwell 10 to 30 minutes for chemical reaction then extract until towel shows clean. 3- Rinse until towel shows clean to a healthy squeak with Rinse-3.0. 4- Control bacteria activities with KillBacteria-3.7 an option in extreme cases. Optional: 1- Remove foreign contamination from within the leather structure – use Hydrator-3.3. 2- Rejuvenate to soften and strengthen leathers structure – use Fatliquor-5.0 or leather scented Fatliquor LS-5.5. 3- Impart a classical leather scent to mask the finish – use Protector-B+, D+, S+ or W+. Urine: Urine is a compound waste discharge, comprises of urochrome, uric acid and the ammonium salt to deal with. When deposited urine attracts the natural bacteria from the atmosphere and starts to ferments, a putrid odor will develop from the protein component of the urine and ammonic odor will develop from the ammonium salt. When ammonic odor becomes present, the pH of the contamination would have shifted to 10. Such high pH above the neutral average 3 to 5 of leather causes the amphoteric protein fiber to shift ionic negative (-ve); that causes the protein fibers to repels its other ionic negative (-ve) constituents like the tanning agent, fatliquor and dyestuff. Behaving just like the attraction of a magnet, like poles repel. When the leather constituent breaks hydrogen bond with the protein fiber, the leather starts to denature and revert to rawhide. A typical appearance of an aged or compounded contamination is a darkening effect from the fugitive tanning agents, a whitening effect from the fatliquor. Fugitive dyestuff or bleeding is only apparent from a white towel detection and yellowing from the urochrome. The denaturing or reverting to rawhide effect of the leather is further confirmed by tackiness or in worst-case sliminess in the present of moisture. The leach out fatliquor results in stiffness and fugitive dyestuff results in discoloration. A systematic sequence of decontamination approach includes surface residue removal with CleanUrine-1.5 (pH 1.5), and rinse with Acidifier-2.0 (pH 2.0) recharging the protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) and neutralizing the ammonium salt with KillUrine-2.1 (pH 2.1). Utilizing such a low pH treatment retards bacteria activities from off gassing putrid odors, a natural pH control without the need to use bactericide or fungicide for mold prevention. Therefore, urine is a type of soiling that will require a biochemistry approach to decontaminate it. Restoring the leather begins after decontamination with Hydrator-3.3, a pH 3.3 multifunctional product that has ionic positive (+ve) charging abilities, an active surfactantcy essential for foreign water movement within the inter-fibrillary spaces to redistribute the leather constituents and purging foreign contamination to resurface. This is the last of the wet cleaning process to remove suspended urochrome yellowish compound through visible white tissue paper as an extension of the leather in the wicking process as the leather dries naturally. Only then, without a trace of the urine stain that Fatliquor-5.0 (pH 5.0) replenishing commences. The emulsified fat and oil encased water molecule breaks free when hydrogen bond attraction takes place between the fat and oil with the protein fiber, leaving a breathing space essential for leather transpiration to function naturally. The fat plumps the leather with fullness from easily collapsing into creases and wrinkles during stress or flex, while the oil lubricates the fibers so that they slide over one another like millions of inter-connecting hinges with smoothness. One important unique characteristic of leather is suppleness with strength and much depends on the fatliquor, in this holistic approach to effective leather urine decontamination and restoration. For severe neglected cases with finishes damages as seen in this picture, refinishing commences after leather suppleness restoration.

Leather Doctor CleanSuede-4.5 in 250ml is a water-based leather-safe cleaner with a pH value of 4.5 formulated for all suede type. Including Napa-suede, split-suede and the reverse nappy side Nubuck and of all smooth leathers. It’s also safe on all natural and synthetic fabric lining excluding silk and rayon. It is an all-purpose leather-safe mild anionic universal cleaner without the potential side effects like rings and browning on sensitive leather. It is particularly effective in emulsifying oily soils and in suspending particulates. It works by penetrating, lubricating and suspending soiling safely and effectively through gentle chemical reaction, working in perfect harmony with all leather constituents that include the tanning agent, preservative, dyestuff and especially the fatliquor for a leather-safe cleaning experience. In a holistic cleaning system it is highly recommended to follow through with RinseSuede-3.0 to a healthy squeak thus prevents or ceases potential remaining residue from overworking. Application: 1- Identify, inspect, test and dry soil removal prior to application. 2- Shake well, spray and agitate with appropriate suede detailing brush and or Eraser-5 accordingly. 3- Dwell 10 to 30 minutes or before it dries for complete soil de-flocculation to occur. 4- Extract suspended soiling – use dry highly absorbent terry cotton towel. Rinse Remaining Residue free of suds: 1- Rinse to a healthy squeaky clean until towel shows clean – use RinseSuede-3.0. Note: For stubborn soiling, use Prep-4.4 before going into other specialty products from the Suede Leather Problem Solving Guide. Recommend: 1- To reduce stickiness when necessary – use Acidifier-2.0. 2- To hydrate stiff leathers – use Hydrator-3.3. 3- To soften and strengthen leather – use Fatliquor-5.0. 4- To impart a non-stick rub-resistant protection – use scented Protector-S+ or scentless Protector-S. Use Protector-W or W+ for the coarser split-suede.

Leather Doctor RinseSuede-3.0 in 250ml is a pH 3.0 water-based suede-safe universal rinse for all napa and split suede. It is to removes suspended soiling by towel extraction while neutralizing harmful alkaline residues and charging the protein fiber ionic positive simultaneously to increase the attraction between the ionic negative suede constituent like the tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. End result should produce a squeaky feel otherwise proceed with optional Acidifier-2.0 to resolve any alkaline overexposure sticky or slimy issue.Appropriate Brushes: Use SuedeSplitBrush-3 for split-suede (always use this sharp brass brush at a slant angle to avoid scratches to fine suede). Otherwise use SuedeNapaBrush-2 to avoid scratches and for fine napa suede. Appropriate Erasers: Use LeatherEraser-4 for fine kid and lamb napa suede. Use SuedeEraser-5 for coarser split suede. Application: 1- Identify, inspect, test and dry soil removal prior to application. 2- Shake well, spray and agitate with appropriate brush. 3- Extract suspended soiling – use dry terry cotton towel.

Leather Doctor Hydrator-3.3 in 250ml is a water-based pH3.3 leather-safe hydrator. It is mainly used as a fatliquoring preconditioner with multi functional abilities. Surface application is primary to check for even surface tension free of blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing. Structural application will require saturating to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. This universal Hydrator-3.3 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin. The multi functional abilities include: A- Surface Tension Inspection. B- Leather Stiffness and Unnatural Creases Rectification. C- Structural Cleaning. D- Dye Bleeding, Leather Tackiness and Stiffness Rectification. E- Dye Fading Rectification. F- Reverse-Transfer Suspended Soiling. G- Leather pH Chemistry Integrity Rectification. H- Fatliquor Surface Residue Cleaning. I- Leather Shrinkage Rectification: A - Surface Tension Inspection: Surface tension prevents liquid penetration and may result in undesired blotchiness with uneven absorption. Surface tension inspection is for even appearance of even absorption rate prior to Fatliquor-5.0 application - Instruction . . . A1- The leather surface to be fatliquored is lightly mist spray with Hydrator-3.3 evenly and wipe with lint free towel to free of surface tension prior to fatliquoring. It is then let to slow dry. A2- Fatliquored surface residue sheen when dry if any, is driven into the leather structure with Hydrator-3.3 in conjunction with appropriate brushes, converting milky residue if any to crystal clear. A3- The crystal clear moisture is towel extracted until towel shows dry. A4- When almost dry of up to 25% combine moisture content the leather is stake, stretch or massage to complete dry for desired suppleness. B - Leather Stiffness and Unnatural Creases Rectification: Leather stiffness is fibers structure that becomes stick together when leather commonly gets wet and in most cases fatliquor leaches out. Severe stiffness results when leather lost its fatliquor under heat over-exposure and should be handle with caution from cracking it. Leather creases are unnatural wrinkles resulting from the collapsing empty leather fiber structure due to diminishing fatliquor (fat and oil) content.To plumps, relaxes and separates crushed, shrunk and stick together fibrils by manipulating away-unwanted stiffness and unnatural creases is as follows - Instruction . . . B1- The thickness of the leather is saturated to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers with Hydrator-3.3. B2- The leather is cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72hrs for complete hydration or saturation. B3- It is then manipulate by staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing to relax the leather to satisfaction. B4- With satisfaction and allowing up to 25% combine moisture content or when a cotton dry towel remains dry from wiping and the leather is still damp with Hydrator-3.3, fatliquoring begins before the leather is completely dry. B5- The fatliquored leather is left to slow dry and any surface shining residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. B6- The surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. B7- Begin staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness. Best result is manipulating the leather structure to dryness for extra desired suppleness. C - Structural Cleaning: Structural cleaning is cleaning penetrated soiling or foreign contamination from below surface. This process includes the following steps - Instruction . . . C1- The leather is hydrated with Hydrator-3.3, depends on severity up to 72hours dwelling is recommended to moves the soiling upwards. C2- To maintain a consistent moisture level, the leather in question may be seal in container or plastic wrapping with periodic inspection to top up Hydrator-3.3. C3- The suspended soiling is extracted by squeezing between an absorbent towel and a smooth spatula to reduce abrasion until towel shows clean. C4- Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. C5- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. C6- Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. C7- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness. D - Dye Bleeding, Leather Tackiness and Stiffness Rectification: Common alkaline overexposure may be detected moist with tackiness or sliminess from the leaching or breaking of hydrogen bond between the leather protein fibers and the tanning agents. Bleeding detected with a white cotton towel is the result of the dyestuff breaking the hydrogen bond as well. Stiffness after leather was wet and dry again is the result of the fibers becoming stick together due to diminishing or leaching fatliquor, emptying out the leather structure. To rectify alkaline overexposure areas is by facilitating colloidal water movement to redistribute the leather constituents from surrounding areas back to the affected areas. In severe cases Acidifier-2.0 is highly recommend in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 to effectively pH balance the leather structure back to its pH neutral (isoelectric point or pI). Note, average pH of chrome-tanned leather is from 3 - 5, and vegetable-tanned leather is about 1 point lower thus more pH sensitive. Procedure sequence for rectifying alkaline overexposure of bleeding, tackiness and stiffness is as follows - Instruction . . . D1- Saturate Hydrator-3.3 into the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. D2- Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell for redistributing of the leather constituents from surrounding area for up to 72hours with periodic inspection and topping up. D3- Towel extraction test for dye bleeding, finger testing to detect and eliminate undesired tackiness or sliminess for a tactile squeaky feel and relax stiffness prior to fatliquoring. D4- Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. D5- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. D6- Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. D7- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness. E - Dye Fading Rectification: Vat-dyed leathers or aniline dyed leathers is subject to sun fading. However, the dormant dyestuff may be activated to refresh the surface with Hydrator-3.3. It will depend on richness of the dormant dyestuff and the dwell time for the hydrator to release the excess dyestuff to resurface, and result may vary from quality of original dyeing process. This is done with sufficient hydration and dwell time up to 72hours. The common practice is as follows - Instruction . . . E1- The thickness of the leather is saturated or hydrated with Hydrator-3.3 to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. E2- It is then cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let to dwell up to 72 hours for excess dyestuff to resurface. E3- The plastic covering is removed and let to natural dry to observe color improvement. E4- With color refreshing satisfaction, the leather is lightly wet back with Hydrator-3.3 again to relax its structure prior to fatliquoring. E5- Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. E6- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. E7- Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. E8- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness. F - Reverse-Transfer Suspended Soiling: Capillary action or wicking process is deployed to move penetrated and suspended soiling to resurface by reverse-transfer technique with Towel-T5. First the leather structure needs to be hydrated to facilitate colloidal water movement within the structural inter-fibrillary spaces, it will also require saturating Hydrator-3.3 to move the suspended soiling upwards. As it wicks through the Towel-T5, soilings are trapped instead of still remaining on the leather surface to be easily peeled off. In practice the following steps are adopted - Instruction . . . F1- The thickness of the leather is hydrated to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. F2- It is then cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours to loosen and suspend foreign soiling particulates. F3- The plastic wrapping is removed and replace with Towel-T5 without airspace to trap soiling as it dries instead of remaining on the surface. For it to stick onto the leather surface, the Towel-5 is spray wet with Hydrator-3.3 and brush out the air space with horsehair Brush-1 at a 45 degrees angle without tearing the towel tight. As it dries it will shrink back and tighten further sticking tight onto the leather surface. Recommend that Fatliquor-5.0 is replenished in combination at this stage especially if the leather has already show signs of cracking. Note that dried leathers with insufficient fatliquor (less then 15% fat and oil) content, when dry again will likely accelerate any existing cracking. F4- Towel-T5 is peel off when crispy dry and surface residue erase with Eraser-4 or Eraser-5 for suede accordingly prior to fatliquoring. F5- Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. F6- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. F7- Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. F8- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness. G - Leather pH Chemistry Integrity Rectification: Leather is an amphoteric material or pH sensitive to the protein fibers. Alkalinity will shift the leather protein fiber ionic negative (-ve), while the other common leather constituents like the tanning agents, dyestuff and fatliquor are non-amphoteric and remains ionic negative (-ve). Thus like a magnet “like poles repels”, the leather constituent breaks hydrogen bond with the leather protein fiber and the leather denatures or revert to rawhide. Breaking of hydrogen bonds between the protein fibers and its constituents often manifest as tackiness, bleeding and stiffness when leather gets wet and dry again. Charging of the leather protein fibers ionic positive (+ve) has to go below its pH neutral (iso-electric point or pI) of pH 3 - 5. Thus in extreme cases Acidifier-2.0 with a pH value of 2.0 accelerate the ionic positive (+ve) charging processes to restore the pH chemistry integrity of the leather. In practice the following steps are observed - Instruction . . . G1- The thickness of the leather is saturated to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. G2- It is then cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours for chemical reaction to take place. G3- The plastic wrapping is removed and lightly spray with Hydrator-3.3 to even out the surface and inspect for any unwanted tackiness or bleeding. G4- Acidifier-2.0 treatment may be necessary for tackiness or bleeding control. Healthy leather that is stabilized, pH balanced and ionic positive (+ve) charged should feels squeaky instead with reduced bleeding. With satisfaction to restore the leather pH chemistry integrity, fatliquoring continues. G5- Fatliquoring begins and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. G6- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. G7- Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. G8- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness. H - Fatliquor Surface Residue Cleaning: Fatliquor with its fat and oil content is essential for leather suppleness from cracking, it is meant for its structure, any surface remnants may alter its original surface luster and attracts soiling. Removing fatliquor surface residue is by brushing with appropriate brushes while spraying with Hydrator-3.3 turning the milky residue to crystal clear. When almost dry the leather is stack or massaged to dry for extra suppleness. The sequence of steps is as follows - Instruction . . . H1- Likely mist Hydrator-3.3 on surface remnants and it will turn milky. H2- Brush to drive the milky residue into the leather structure. H3- Extract until towel shows dry. H4- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness. I - Leather Shrinkage Rectification: Leather shrinkage is often experience when leather is water damaged in conjunction with fast heat drying from the sun or other heat sources. Another common dry shrinkage is from intense heat of the sun or fireplace. Heat evaporates the fatliquor (fat and oil); the leather fibers shrunk, become stick together and result in stiffness. Fatliquor is the lifeblood of leathers and with deficiency the leather stiffens up and easily leads to cracking. Rectification is as follows - Instruction . . . I1- The thickness of the leather is saturated to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers with Hydrator-3.3. I2- The leather is cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72hrs for complete hydration or saturation. I3- When fully hydrated and relaxed it is then manipulate by staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing the shrinkage to satisfaction. I4- With satisfaction and allowing up to 25% combine moisture content or when a cotton dry towel remains dry from wiping and the leather is still damp with Hydrator-3.3, fatliquoring with Fatliquor-5.0 begins before the leather is completely dry. I5- The fatliquored leather is left to slow dry and any surface shining residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. I6- The surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. I7- Begin staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness. J - How to Lay Flat a Cowhide and other Hair-on Rug? Cowhide and other hair-on rug may not lie flat the first time or may eventually curl up again at the edges. This refuse to lay flat phenomenon is directly related to the dryness of its original fatliquor (ionic negative charged fat and oil). Optimum average percentage of fat and oil content averages 14% (read from a leather moisture meter or equivalent). Moisture meter may show percentage fluctuation of fat and oil moisture level from area to area when a rug is first put to lie flat and as the rug ages the edges that curls normally reflects drops in percentages of fat and oil content as well due to evaporation. To rectify and put the rug to lay flat to satisfaction, the rug has to be hydrated to even out its uneven tension in additional to fat and oil content replenished to increase its suppleness. Without topping up its fat and oil content the rug will stiff up and eventually leads to cracks and tears. Hydrating to preconditionering the rug prior to Fatliquoring (fat and oil replenishing) instruction is as follows . . . J1- The rug is turn over to the suede side. J2- Soiling is removed with hideBrush-4 and deteriorated fibers exfoliated with suedeEraser-5. J3- Suspended soiling is vacuum dust free. J4- The thickness of the hide is saturated to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers with Hydrator-3.3. J5- The hide is cover up with a heavy plastic sheet for control evaporation laying flat without air space and letting it dwell up to 72hrs for complete hydration or saturation. J6- Periodically, while still damp under plastic sheet, it is then work over the plastic sheet by using a spatula from the center to the edges to flatten the lay. J7- Troublesome areas may need reapplication of Hydrator-3.3 and work over again until satisfaction. J8- With inspection satisfaction of flatten rug, the plastic sheet is removed and fatliquoring continues. J9- The hide is towel clean extracted from the center to the edges until a dry cotton terry towel shows clean and dry. J10- Before the hide dries Fatliquor-5.0 is applied and distributed with foamBrush-3” to saturation. J11- With each almost drying cycle more fatliquor is applied until the pre-determine amount is replenished to achieve the desired average 14 percentage of fat and oil content when dried. J12- The hide is left for slow drying for extra suppleness and ready to be flip over ready for use. Hydrator-3.3 on Embossed Leather: When embossed leather is of the absorbent type (water-droplet-testing being absorbed rather then pool on its surface) any prolong hydration may relax the embossing out. Thus the long dwell hydration does not apply to embossed leather. For, stamped or embossed leathers are created by mechanical stamping or by embossing devices such as hydraulic press or roller mounted moving carriage. By exerting extreme pressure against a heated plate, the leather with the original unwanted grain pattern is replaced with an imprint of a new pattern, initiating the grain pattern of another animal or design. Traditionally, the art of hand stamping leathers has been used for many decorative purposes especially on vegetable-tanned leathers. Besides, accomplishing the purely decorative effect, stamping or embossing hides many natural blemishes or faults such as healing scars from accident, branding or parasite. Otherwise, it would downgrade in price if left alone. Frequent Asked Questions: >>> I finally got around to looking at the instructions to begin to apply my Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 application. I must say, the instructions are quite extensive, a little confusing and I'm sure a lot that doesn't apply to my application. Again, I am trying to remove some wrinkles on a seat bolster in a car that is only 6 years old. So the leather I would imagine is the way it is from stress and not from age. Would you be able to tell me in simple, layman terms how you would recommend going about applying to achieve the results I am looking for? It would be greatly appreciated. With the Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system you may start with:
1- Apply the Hydrator-3.3 and use a horsehair brush or equivalent to remove surface soiling and extract with a white cotton terry towel until towel shows clean. 2- Apply Hydrator-3.3 with the polybrush and let it absorbed into the leather structure - keep on apply as long as it get soaks in. 3- Use a cling wrapper to control evaporation and leave it there up to 72hrs or a shorter duration to soften up the leather structure. There should be a little moisture oozing out when press with fingers and thumb to have the hydrator at its optimum level during this dwell time - may it long or short. 4- When the leather structure is limp and soft, the cling wrapper is removed and wick-up soiling is extracted with towel until towel shows clean. 5- While still damp, Fatliquor-5.0 is applied with the same polybrush to be fully absorbed by the leather structure. In each application cycle 83.33% of the fatliquor water content needs to be evaporated. It is the fat and oil contents that are essential to supple up the leather, the fat plumps the leather and the oil lubricates for softness. When the last application pools on the surface will indicate sufficient absorption and ends the application. 6- The leather is left for slow natural drying and surface shine is removed with Hydrator-3.3 until any milky residue is removed off the surface. 7- The seat can be used immediately by placing a towel over it. 8- It is also recommended that the seat be used from almost dry to dry to produce extra softness to the leather with strength.

Leather Doctor Fatliquor-5.0 in 250ml is an anionic negative (-ve) charged micro emulsion of fat, oil and water for rejuvenating all leather types. It is typically used in conjunction after Hydrator-3.3 relaxing and opening up the fibrous leather structure. It softens the leather when dry with stretchability, compressibility and flexibility, while enhancing its rip tensile strength greatly. It is for replenishing the original fat and oil that diminishes thru sun bleaching, ageing, heat and alkaline overexposure or cleaning. On application, the water-encased molecule breaks free when ionic attraction takes place between the fat and oil with the leather protein fiber. The excess free water content wicks out leaving a breathing space behind for leather natural transpiration. The fat plumps the leather with fullness from easily collapsing into creases and wrinkles during stress or flex, while the oil lubricates the fibers so that they slide over one another smoothly like millions of inter-connecting hinges. Thus helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature ageing. This universal Fatliquor-5.0 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin. Leather Approximate Quantity or Percentage of Fatliquor: The quantities of fatliquor (fat and oil) contents retained in the leather after an universal tannery fatliquoring process may varies up from 14% to 16% depending on the leather types and it usage. This percentage drops as the fat and oil content diminishes or leaches through ageing, water, heat or chemical overexposure. Leather rejuvenating or fatliquor replenishing is base on weight of the leather in relation to the percentage of remaining fatliquor. A simple calculation of percentage of fatliquor topping up requirement would be as follows: If the weight of the leather in question is 100gm and fatliquor (fat and oil) content meter reading is less than 1%. By applying 80gm of Fatliquor-5.0 to it will deliver an end result incremental of 13.3% fatliquor when dry as the 66.6% water contents evaporates. In the leather rejuvenating Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system, Hydrator-3.3 plays an important role by relaxing, opening up the inter-fibrillary spaces, facilitating and redistributing colloidal water movement, protonating and doing all the pre-conditioning work prior to fatliquoring including cleaning up any excess surface remnants to have a sticky-free surface. In practice with severe dryness the ratio for Hydrator-3.3 is 2 to 1 of Fatliquor-5.0. It works out to be approximately 160gm of Hydrator-3.3 plus 80gm of Fatliquor-5.0 to replenish a 100gm dry leather from less than 1% back to the original tannery up from 14% to 16% fatliquor content. In every bottle of Fatliquor-5.0 by weight content is comprises of 16.66% ionic negative (-ve) charged fat and oil, and 83.33% of water, the water content that encased the fat and oil molecule in an emulsion suspension when hydrogen bond with the ionic positive (+ve) leather protein fiber will break free and discharged clear from the leather structure to the surface. Instruction: 1- Warm-up and shake well to a full emulsion for better penetration. 2- Apply Fatliquor-5.0 and redistribute with foam brush until saturation. 3- Repeat applications each time water contents evaporate until fully saturated. 4- Drive remaining surface remnants free of milky fat and oil until it turns clear with Hydrator-3.3. 5- Allow natural drying for extra softness. 6- Suppleness of leathers is further stake or massage or flex accordingly with a little wet back with Hydrator-3.3. Caution: Insufficient fatliquoring (fat and oil) content may suffer cracking from staking, massaging or flexing. Tips: 1- When crispy dry, prior surface contamination/damages may darkens as soiling particulates resurface. 2- Removes soiling particulates with Eraser-4 for all leathers including nubuck and Eraser-5 for suede. 3- Stretching the darken areas lightly will also lightens the appearance. Frequent Asked Questions: Question- "I finally got around to looking at the instructions to begin to apply my Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 application. I must say, the instructions are quite extensive, a little confusing and I'm sure a lot that doesn't apply to my application. Again, I am trying to remove some wrinkles on a seat bolster in a car that is only 6 years old. So the leather I would imagine is the way it is from stress and not from age. Would you be able to tell me in simple, layman terms how you would recommend going about applying to achieve the results I am looking for? It would be greatly appreciated." Answer- With the Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system you may start with: 1- Apply the Hydrator-3.3 and use a horsehair brush or equivalent to remove surface soiling and extract with a white cotton terry towel until towel shows clean. 2- Apply Hydrator-3.3 with the polybrush and let it absorbed into the leather structure - keep on apply as long as it get soaks in. 3- Use a cling wrapper to control evaporation and leave it there up to 72hrs or a shorter duration to soften up the leather structure. There should be a little moisture oozing out when press with fingers and thumb to have the hydrator at its optimum level during this dwell time - may it long or short. 4- When the leather structure is limp and soft, the cling wrapper is removed and wick-up soiling is extracted with towel until towel shows clean. 5- While still damp, Fatliquor-5.0 is applied with the same polybrush to be fully absorbed by the leather structure. In each application cycle 83.33% of the fatliquor water content needs to be evaporated. It is the fat and oil contents that are essential to supple up the leather, the fat plumps the leather and the oil lubricates for softness. When the last application pools on the surface will indicate sufficient absorption and ends the application. 6- The leather is left for slow natural drying and surface shine is removed with Hydrator-3.3 until any milky residue is removed off the surface. 7- The seat can be used immediately by placing a towel over it. 8- It is also recommended that the seat be used from almost dry to dry to produce extra softness to the leather with strength. Question- "I have been keeping the zebra damp and applying fatliquor with distilled water the last couple of days...it is pretty sodden and now looking white when I brush the fatliquor solution over it which means to me that it is not sinking in any more...." Answer- Before any application of Fatliquor-5.0, the total existing combination of liquid content has to be reduced to about 25% through slow drying, thus have the capacity to received further Fatliquor-5.0 in a repeated cycle to accumulate a total of about 15% of fat and oil when dry. Question- "I presume I now need the hydrator to assist the fatliquor to be absorbed??" Answer- By adding further Hydrator-3.3 on a fully saturated hide does not help the Fatliquor-5.0 to be absorbed. It is allowing the excess liquid to evaporate allowing further Fatliquor-5.0 to be absorbed instead. Question- "It seems to be more fragile with being so moist should I let it dry out again in view of the fact the hydrator may not arrive until next week?? Should I then just massage the hydrator over the hide before attempting to use more fatliquor? Answer- Sounds like the hide is sufficiently relaxed, let the liquid content evaporate up to 25% dryness and begin introducing Fatliquor-5.0 once more in a repeated cycle.

Leather Doctor CleanWool-5.5 in 250ml is a water-based pH 5.5 wool-safe mild disinfectant cleaner to reduce or eliminate odors during the drying time. It cleans gently by penetrating, lubricating and suspending soiling through chemical reaction. It is formulated for woolskin, sheepskin, shearling, feather, hair-on and all fabrics except rayon and silk. Instruction:For Degreasing use DegreaserWool-5.6 follow with RinseWool-4.0.1- Inspect and dry soil removal prior to application.2- Shake well, spray evenly and brush at a slant angle with appropriate horsehair, nylon or brass brush.3- Extract suspended soiling with dry absorbent terry towel until it shows clean.4- Rinse remaining residue with RinseHair-4.0 to a squeaky-clean.5- Groom and let dry naturally.6- When crispy dry, groom again with a slick comb for a bloom.Non-stick protection option:Use leather scented Protector-S+ or scentless Protector-S.

Leather Doctor RinseWool-4.0 in 250ml is for wool, woolskin, sheepskin, shearling, feather, hair-on and all fabrics except rayon and silk. This is a pH 4.0 aqueous wool-safe rinse for rinsing, neutralizing and stabilizing wool and hair pH-chemistry integrity.Instruction: 1- Spray and towel extract suspended soiling until it shows clean. 2- Groom and let dry naturally. 3- When crispy dry, groom again with a slick comb for a bloom. Optional: Impart a non-stick silky feel with a classic leather scent – use Protector-S+ or scentless Protector-S.

 

 

 

 

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